Hiking & Camping at Denali National Park

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While likely one of the most tourist-y places in the state, it isn't truly a trip to Alaska without visiting the acclaimed Denali National Park and hoping for a brief glimpse of majestic Mount McKinley, also known as Denali, if only for a minute. Here are the routes to get you there.

- Take the camper bus. At only $35 a person for the entire time you are camping in the park, you can spend a few nights at a bus-accessed campground, equipped with bear boxes and pit toilets, and spend your days hopping on and off any park bus (the green buses) to travel around the park. See a full list of buses available here. The bus travel takes some time, so plan on riding the bus all day for at least one of the days you are visiting the park. And the trip to Wonder Lake? Definitely worth it if you've got a chance of clear skies in the forecast. Either way make sure you make it to Eielson Visitor Center.

- Keep your eyes open. Wildlife is everywhere. In just two days riding the bus we saw many moose (both massive bulls and cows with calves, countless caribou, a fox digging up his dinner, Dall sheep near and far, and 18 brown bears. On hikes we saw moose from afar, watched golden eagles soar in the canyons below and came within 20 feet of Dall sheep rams butting heads on a ridgeline near Mt. Margaret. Denali NP is a truly wild habitat and both a privilege and pleasure to experience.

- Pave your own trail. In Denali, you can hike anywhere you'd like, and, with little maintained trails, the park encourages back country travel. Grab a good map of the park, preferably a topo map, and set out toward your favorite tundra hill or alpine saddle. While hiking in the backcountry, try to keep off trails that look like they've been created by other humans, as the park truly encourages "no trace left behind." Find a map and list of trails near the park's entrance, as well as some more tips for hiking off-trail here.

- Go on a day hike. Bring water and perhaps a water filter, camera, binoculars, compass, extra socks, rain gear, sunscreen, first aid kit and enough food for the entire day. Avoid cotton. Invest in bear spray. You'll likely never need to use it, but on the chance that you encounter a brown bear on a trail, it is important to have a means of protection.

- Camping overnight at a designated site? Bring all of the above plus: food and cooking means / stove and pot(s) (always bring food for at least an extra day out in the park), rain gear, an extra pair of clothes (including socks), fire starter, tarp(s) and rope, emergency blanket / ponchos or plastic bags. For a complete backcountry camping list see the NPS website.

- Visit the kennels. The park has a rich history of sled dog use and is proud to introduce your dogs to you. The park's first superintendent, and climbing leader for Mount McKinley's first summit 100 years ago, Harry Karstens, patrolled the park via sled dog. He and his climbing crew also utilized sled dogs on their McKinley expedition. At the sled dog kennels you'll get some time to pet the dogs, learn about their daily routines and see them in full pulling action. These sled dogs are still used today in the winter months to patrol the park's vast interiors. Find more information here.

With only one road and no public car access, Denali is truly a magnificent place and well worth the visit. For more information, National Geographic has a great article on the park and goes into depth on some visitor necessities. Check it out.

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Check out the park's blog
. / View more photos on Flickr.

Catch and Cook a Dolly Varden





Fishing on the Kenai Peninsula, a lot was learned about the local bait and angle. Summer is salmon season and as king, sockeye, dog and silver make their way up river from late June until early September (kings are first, then the rest proceed respectively), Dolly Varden are a prized catch, while they trail behind the spawning salmon looking for fresh and tasty eggs.

Exploring both the Quartz and Crescent creeks near Cooper Landing for a few days straight, we cherished every sunny minute of bait, cast and hook. The salmon paid little attention to the lines and each evening one plump catch hit the frying pan. (And starting off the day with blueberry oatmeal crisp can't be beat.)
















Presently, a rainy Denali National Park has delivered calm days, cool nights and countless animal sightings. Autumn seems to be approaching quickly as the surrounding wilderness prepares for the quieter and chillier of seasons. Some amazing photos and more notes on the area soon.

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The Haul Road

Haul Road in Brooks Range



Hello, Alaska. So we've been here for a little over a week now and we've driven north to south. Four hundred plus miles up the Dalton Highway, also known as the Haul Road, past the Arctic Circle, through the unearthly, spectacular Brooks Range, and to the Arctic Ocean. Decked out with extra gas tanks and two spare tires, we took the infamous Dalton Highway on and achieved our goal. After adjusting to endless daylight, we seem to be missing it already.

Now, over 800 miles south of the Arctic, we're on the Kenai Peninsula, searching for silver salmon. Fly fishing. Check. Delicious arctic grayling. Check. Salmon and Alaska Range, here we come.

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along the Haul Road

The pipeline

The perfect day

Arctic Grayling

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Grayling dinner

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Camp.

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1:01am light @ Galbraith Lake. Well north of the Arctic Circle.

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Plain of Six Glaciers




We haven't found the words to describe the beauty that surrounded us while visiting Canada's Banff and Jasper National Parks on the Icefield Parkway. So for now, a few photos of our hike to Plain of Six Glaciers last week. The nine mile trek took us up above Lake Louise and alongside Victoria Glacier.

We've seen so many places in the last two and a half weeks. Between glacier hikes and mountain vistas, four time-zones and international border crossings, we're just trying to take it all in. Lucky us, the sun stays up late here.

By the time you read this, we should be somewhere on Alaska's Dalton Highway and to the Arctic Ocean in another day. For more photos find some mostly chronological shots of our journey on Flickr.










Bear Country




When we started off on this trip we anticipated seeing a lot of wildlife. And we have. So far, we've seen bison, pronghorn antelope, bighorn sheep, mountain goats, mule deer, whitetail, elk, moose, feral horses and an array of bird species. But the animal we've spotted on the most occasions has, undoubtedly, been the continuously celebrated, and feared, bear.

Since entering Glacier National Park 10 days ago, and driving north to Canada, through Banff and Jasper National Parks and into British Columbia, we've seen 20 bears - 16 black bears and four grizzlies. Three of the grizzlies were eating in the bushes just off the highway northwest of Grande Cache, a sow and two cubs. Earlier that day we saw another sow, a black bear, and her three cubs crossing the road, near Maligne Lake in Jasper.

While we were hiking in Many Glacier at Glacier National Park, in the states, we were watching a cow moose grazing in a shallow lake. Wading in the clear blue waters of the lake's edge, we were looking for the bull moose that we had just heard was in the area. Suddenly two our right, about 200 yards away, we noticed some movement. It was a black bear, running our way. An adolescent, maybe two years old, he quickly noticed two humans standing between him and whatever he was eager to run towards and stopped in his tracks. Curiously, he looked at us for a second or two, then ran away from shore, up into the trees. As we continued on our hike to the second lake on the trail, we saw him again, up the hill and in the trees. He seemed to know were were around and wasn't too shy, but wasn't too interested in saying, "hello" either. (Which pleased us.) After another minute or two he eventually scrambled over fallen logs and up the hill out of sight.

Now in the Yukon Territory, we should be in Alaska in a day or two. Surely we'll stay alert, and always safe, for more encounters with the bold and beautiful bear.















Photo Notes: The first five photos are of a black bear we spotted on the side of the road just after crossing the USA-Canada border. He paid no attention to us as he rummaged through bushes for buffaloberries. The next photo is of our first grizzly sighting in Waterton National Park. Then, the third set of photos is of a mama black bear and her three cubs in Jasper. We didn't snap any shots of the sow grizzly and her two cubs later that day. It was a quick sighting and we were busy staying alert as she was 200 or so yards from us, even though we had the safety of our vehicle between.

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