There's nothing better than waking up in a warm cozy cabin and sipping on make-shift mochas while savoring a big pot of slow cooked anasazi beans. After simmering on a wood-burning stove, the tender beans are a little sweet, a little savory and exactly what is needed after a long and stormy night. A dash of salt and roasted Hatch green chiles add that incredible kick that really makes a morning and jumpstarts your day.

To our surprise, we found Hatch green chiles at a local grocer in Anchorage. We gladly purchased a pound and roasted the majority over a campfire during one of our rainiest nights in Denali National Park, for some of our best beef, cheese, potato and green chile burritos to date. This resulted in another stop in Anchorage to grab a few pounds for our three night stay at Crescent Lake.



















Red and brown rocky peaks tower over the little cabin, in nearly every direction, cradling the quiet valley and isolating the three-mile U-shaped basin. Gazing west out the cabin's largest window, a herd of Dall sheep graze near the top of the mountain, while the clouds come and go, dancing around the ridgeline. The picture completely contrasts the snow white foot of fresh powder weighing on the evergreens and blowing along the jagged peak of Mt Hood, just outside the window at the historic and truly remarkable Timberline Lodge today. Thothe two scenes couldn't be more alike. A cozy shelter. The lawless elements. A monumental mountain.


With a full belly and the rain letting up, its time to catch some fish. A small aluminum rowboat sits on the shores of the lake. A lake renown for its plentiful, trophy grayling, an Alaskan sport-fishing favorite. Sticking close to the shore, the little boat stands a fighting chance against the windy waves, while the grayling rest in shallow bays and still coves. One fish. Two fish. Five catches later, pockets of grayling are hungry for the flies. This lake, this place, it fills you up. Here, time slows you down and nature's transcendence emphasizes the value in life's most basic of needs and both the greatness and insignificance of man.









Find more of our recent photos from WA and OR on Flickr and Instagram, @vanilleink / @slevin414.

With over one hundred miles of rustic and rugged dirt road, the Denali Highway snakes through the high alpine foothills of the central Alaskan Range. Constructed in 1957 as the original road access to Denali National Park, the highway serves up some of Alaska's best mountain views and a quick escape from the rows of souvenir shops and adventure tours in The Canyon to the west. Listed by National Geographic as the "No. 2 Driver's Drive in the World," here are a few of our tips after the two and a half days we spent driving this breathtaking byway. 

While likely one of the most tourist-y places in the state, it isn't truly a trip to Alaska without visiting the acclaimed Denali National Park and hoping for a brief glimpse of majestic Mount McKinley, also known as Denali, if only for a minute. Here are the routes to get you there.

- Take the camper bus. At only $35 a person for the entire time you are camping in the park, you can spend a few nights at a bus-accessed campground, equipped with bear boxes and pit toilets, and spend your days hopping on and off any park bus (the green buses) to travel around the park. See a full list of buses available here. The bus travel takes some time, so plan on riding the bus all day for at least one of the days you are visiting the park. And the trip to Wonder Lake? Definitely worth it if you've got a chance of clear skies in the forecast. Either way make sure you make it to Eielson Visitor Center.

- Keep your eyes open. Wildlife is everywhere. In just two days riding the bus we saw many moose (both massive bulls and cows with calves, countless caribou, a fox digging up his dinner, Dall sheep near and far, and 18 brown bears. On hikes we saw moose from afar, watched golden eagles soar in the canyons below and came within 20 feet of Dall sheep rams butting heads on a ridgeline near Mt. Margaret. Denali NP is a truly wild habitat and both a privilege and pleasure to experience.

- Pave your own trail. In Denali, you can hike anywhere you'd like, and, with little maintained trails, the park encourages back country travel. Grab a good map of the park, preferably a topo map, and set out toward your favorite tundra hill or alpine saddle. While hiking in the backcountry, try to keep off trails that look like they've been created by other humans, as the park truly encourages "no trace left behind." Find a map and list of trails near the park's entrance, as well as some more tips for hiking off-trail here.

- Go on a day hike. Bring water and perhaps a water filter, camera, binoculars, compass, extra socks, rain gear, sunscreen, first aid kit and enough food for the entire day. Avoid cotton. Invest in bear spray. You'll likely never need to use it, but on the chance that you encounter a brown bear on a trail, it is important to have a means of protection.

- Camping overnight at a designated site? Bring all of the above plus: food and cooking means / stove and pot(s) (always bring food for at least an extra day out in the park), rain gear, an extra pair of clothes (including socks), fire starter, tarp(s) and rope, emergency blanket / ponchos or plastic bags. For a complete backcountry camping list see the NPS website.

- Visit the kennels. The park has a rich history of sled dog use and is proud to introduce your dogs to you. The park's first superintendent, and climbing leader for Mount McKinley's first summit 100 years ago, Harry Karstens, patrolled the park via sled dog. He and his climbing crew also utilized sled dogs on their McKinley expedition. At the sled dog kennels you'll get some time to pet the dogs, learn about their daily routines and see them in full pulling action. These sled dogs are still used today in the winter months to patrol the park's vast interiors. Find more information here.

With only one road and no public car access, Denali is truly a magnificent place and well worth the visit. For more information, National Geographic has a great article on the park and goes into depth on some visitor necessities. Check it out.



















Check out the park's blog. / View more photos on Flickr.

Fishing on the Kenai Peninsula, a lot was learned about the local bait and angle. Summer is salmon season and as king, sockeye, dog and silver make their way up river from late June until early September (kings are first, then the rest proceed respectively), Dolly Varden are a prized catch, while they trail behind the spawning salmon looking for fresh and tasty eggs.

Exploring both the Quartz and Crescent creeks near Cooper Landing for a few days straight, we cherished every sunny minute of bait, cast and hook. The salmon paid little attention to the lines and each evening one plump catch hit the frying pan. (And starting off the day with blueberry oatmeal crisp can't be beat.)













Presently, a rainy Denali National Park has delivered calm days, cool nights and countless animal sightings. Autumn seems to be approaching quickly as the surrounding wilderness prepares for the quieter and chillier of seasons. Some amazing photos and more notes on the area soon.

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Hello, Alaska. So we've been here for a little over a week now and we've driven north to south. Four hundred plus miles up the Dalton Highway, also known as the Haul Road, past the Arctic Circle, through the unearthly, spectacular Brooks Range, and to the Arctic Ocean. Decked out with extra gas tanks and two spare tires, we took the infamous Dalton Highway on and achieved our goal. After adjusting to endless daylight, we seem to be missing it already.

Now, over 800 miles south of the Arctic, we're on the Kenai Peninsula, searching for silver salmon. Fly fishing. Check. Delicious arctic grayling. Check. Salmon and Alaska Range, here we come.























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